The Jacket That Transforms Your Silhouette

Inspired by Dior's 1947 Bar Jacket, these toppers give you an hourglass shape. And it's the perfect time to scoop one up!

As temperatures slowly begin to rise, it may not seem like the right time to talk jackets, but, dear reader, I would like to assure you that, in fact, it is the PERFECT time for a jacket discussion! For three reasons: 1) There are still a few more weeks of fabulous layering weather. 2) Considering how fast time seems to move these days, fall is just around the corner. 3) Retailers are off-loading jackets at the moment, so there are lots on sale or about to be on sale (see below)!

During the FW 2024 season, there was one particular type of jacket that stood out, popping up at Jil Sander, Louis Vuitton, Balmain, Fendi, Givenchy, Carven, and more. And that jacket has its roots in fashion history.

In 1947, Christian Dior introduced his most important collection. (I was going to say, “arguably his most important collection,” but there’s no arguing about it. It simply was.) Called the New Look, it was a response to several factors. WWII had just ended, and the New Look was meant to bring a sense of optimism and a return to opulence after years of austerity. Also, it was exaggeration of the growing trend of accentuating the waistline. At the time, designers had begun nipping things in at the waist, but Dior took it a giant step further, offering dramatically constructed hourglass silhouettes. And the way he achieved that shape? The Bar Jacket.

Credit: Metropolitan Museum of Art

Looking closely at the image above reveals the unique tailoring of this piece. From armhole to waist, the seams taper in aggressively, then swerve outward as they move around the hip. It produces an almost-surreal vision of the feminine shape, with a tiny waist and full lower body.

Many arguments could be made regarding whether the creation of this clearly-unattainable silhouette was damaging to women. My opinion is that it definitely was. BUT as the Bar Jacket has evolved over the years, it has softened a bit, allowing for a real body to fit inside its confines. And seeing appealing versions of it on the runways 77 years after its debut, its endurance alone makes it notable.

Here are the designers’ takes on this piece. Givenchy makes it ultra-luxe with heavy satin; the angular hemline at Balmain looks new; love the techy take at Louis Vuitton, and Fendi’s version is as classic as it gets. The Carven piece is actually a shirt, but I wanted to include it because it really shows that constructed silhouette that is so clearly influenced by Dior’s Bar Jacket.

L to R: Givenchy, Carven, Balmain, Louis Vuitton, Fendi

And speaking of Dior, the label just showed its pre-fall collection, which, of course, included some gorgeous Bar Jackets!

While this jacket might look a bit uptight and uncomfortable in our post-COVID times of ease, it can be deceptively chill to wear (depending on the size and style you have, of course). You see, the jacket’s seams kind of do all the work, giving the hourglass shape without actually squeezing or squishing—an optical illusion of sorts.

If you’re going for a polished look, buy this in the correct size, but I think a cool way to pull this off is to size it up a bit (see the Carven look above). It still creates the silhouette without being so close to the body, so it comes off more relaxed and casual.

Just this morning, I received an email from Ulla Johnson (the company, not the person lol) announcing the arrival of the Briar Jacket, a clear riff on the Bar Jacket with a looser feel. It’s very expensive, and it’s leather, so not for the cost-conscious (ME!) or the vegan. But damn, it’s pretty!

Here’s a roundup of other Bar Jacket styles in stores now! I’m loving the sleeveless versions, and denim styles give it a casual spin. Some are pricier than others, and some aren’t on sale yet, but keep stalking them because I think the prices will start going down soon!

First row, L to R: Proenza Schouler washed out denim; Bec and Bridge super cute vest; Tadashi Shoji lady blazer; Favorite Daughter with a longer line

Second row, L to R: Zara knit cropped version; Rag + Bone cool in tweed; Ganni youthful in denim; Recto amazing neckline!; Aligne longer vest

xx,

Joanna